Three Crowns Inn
The Three Crowns Inn
Bleak Acre
Ullingswick
Herefordshire
England
Tel: +44 (0)1432 820279
Web: www.threecrownsinn.com (www.threecrownsinn.com/)
Serves lunch and dinner tues to sun; bookings advised; children welcome; garden.
‘I’ve got my own little Provence here,’ says Brent Castle, chef-owner of the red-brick, lopsided Three Crowns, as he stands in front of his pub surveying the Herefordshire countryside. 85 per cent of the fruit and veg Brent uses come from an organic market gardener who lives just up the road, or from the pub garden. Brent also has an ever-growing network of home gardeners who supply him with gooseberries, rhubarb, quinces and even the walnuts that he pickles and serves with his goat’s cheese and onion tart. Few eating places source so carefully or so locally, and this seems to affect the atmosphere as well as the food.
A feeling of ease and plenty suffuses the Three Crowns. It’s a proper pub. There’s a small bar with grapes carved into it, traditional wooden wall lights with little cream shades, curtains that look like they’re made from old pyjamas and plenty of drinkers.
Diners tuck into country dishes – rustic in origin, refined in execution – such as confit shoulder of Marches lamb, cassoulet and steamed treacle pudding, smiling at one another as if they’re all in on a well-kept secret. Chris, the barman, will seduce you with local ciders, or slip the list of ‘special wines’ onto your table if he thinks you’d be interested. I wish there was a pub like this hiding behind every hedgerow in Britain.
