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Dramatically situated on the cliff top beside the Gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey, St Mary's is best reached by climbing the 199 steps from the old town below. Surrounded by a crowded, windswept churchyard, the exterior of this Norman church, with its unusual Georgian windows, hints at the riot of styles to be found within. The interior of St Mary's bears witness to changing fashions and tastes from Norman Romanesque to post Napoleonic Wars shipwrights build. Added to by each successive generation, every inch is crammed with galleries and box pews; even the Norman chancel arch is obscured by the Jacobean Cholmley family gallery which looks down onto the impressive 18th century three-decker pulpit. Still heated by a large central stove and lit by candles this wonderfully atmospheric church must be seen to be believed. Service times: Sun 1115.